Foodie Craze

Steve Carter's November 2011 Dive of the Month: The Porthole in Portland, Maine

About a month ago I had the pleasure of visiting Portland, Maine.  It had been a while since I have spent any time in the downtown.  Portland is a gem of a city.  There is an eclectic vibe, as bars, restaurants, dives, diners, and shops all tumble on top of each other.  The city has done a credible job retaining and repurposing many of the classic old buildings.   From the Waterfront District all the way up the hill, there are classic buildings and inviting joints to venture into.

History has dealt Portland an interesting hand to play.  The area was known as Casco when it was permanently settled in 1633 as a fishing village.  In 1658 the area became known as Falmouth.  As was the custom in New England, all the towns seem to be named after a city in England.  Falmouth had a tough row to hoe, as it was destroyed by the Wampanoag in 1676.  In 1690 the French, along with a group of Native Americans, destroyed the village.  As if this wasn’t enough, the Royal Navy burned the village during the Revolutionary War in 1775.  So much for having a village named after an English city.  In 1786 a portion of Falmouth, called the Neck, became known as Portland.  This was the site of the docks and where commerce was centered.  The area was prosperous enough that Portland was the capital of Maine for a brief twelve years before the capital was moved to Augusta in 1832.

Fate continued to deal a tough hand to Portland as the city became the site of the northernmost battle fought during the Civil War.  In 1866 the Great Fire of Portland destroyed the commercial district and left thousands homeless.  To say the locals come from stout stock that can overcome adversity is an understatement.

A lot has changed since the formative years of Portland.  Over the last 378 years Portland has transformed itself many times.  Today the city is home to close to 70,000 residents and boasts a metro population of about 500,000 people.  The charm of the city is apparent in the well-maintained buildings that crowd together in a very pedestrian-friendly city.  The docks are still vibrant, and fishmongers still buy the local catch and ship it throughout the world.  There are fabulous restaurants throughout the city that know what to do with the local fare.  The Farmer’s Table, Duckfat, Vignola, and Fore Street are some of the finer places for a meal.  There are excellent diners to visit which cater to the blue collar crowd.  Becky’s Diner, Andy’s Old Port Pub, The Dogfish Café and Marcy’s are a few notable joints.

A couple of Carhartt compatriots and I chose to wander down Custom House Wharf to visit a quintessential hole in the wall joint recommended by Rick Fecowicz.  Since opening in 1929 as a coffee house, The Porthole has been serving meals to locals that are as hearty as the people who belly up to the bar.  As evidenced by the pictures, the place is off the beaten path.  There is no parking lot to drive your SUV into.  The alley parking is taken up by beat-up F-150s which exemplify what a pickup is meant to be. 

Specials are written on the menu board, and you are either going to sit at the bar or at one of the many mismatched tables.  We chose a table by a potbelly stove that had yet to be cranked up for the season.  The ambience is that of the typical hash house, but the menu board told a different story.  Crab Boursin and asparagus frittata for eleven bucks, scallops and bacon for ten bucks, and Nova Benedict for ten bucks. This is not your typical hash house.  The breakfast menu is hearty.  Corned beef hash with poached eggs, blueberry pancakes, lobster omelet, eggs Florentine, biscuits and sausage gravy, steak and eggs, Huevos rancheros, French toast, and so much more.  The breakfast menu contains the expected and the totally unexpected.  It was a pleasure to sip coffee and laugh out loud while reading the most eclectic menu I have seen in years. 

I opted for the classic corned beef hash with poached eggs, toast and home fries.  The corned beef hash was terrific.  Nice pieces of corned beef with just the right amount of char.  The home fries are a mixture of sweet potatoes and regular potatoes.  A nice touch.  We also sampled the pancakes and biscuits and gravy.  All standard fare by which to judge a joint.  They passed with flying colors.  I look forward to another visit to The Porthole.  I will opt for a special of the day for breakfast and try a lobster roll for lunch.

There is a great outdoor deck where you can experience the sights, sounds, and I am sure the smells of the waterfront of Portland.  If you need an experience where you are coddled and hovered over, this is not the place for you.  If you want to experience the local flavor of Portland and you want to see who gets up and works for a living, head over to The Porthole for a “wicked good” breakfast.  This is a place that didn’t let a visit by Guy Fieri go to its head.

The Porthole
20 Custom House Wharf
Portland, Maine 04101
207-780-6533
Winter Hours: 7 days a week, 7:00AM – 2:00PM
Summer Hours: Monday – Saturday, 7:00AM – 10:00PM and Sunday, 8:00AM – 8:00PM
http://portholemaine.com/

 

Steve Carter's September 2011 Dive of the Month: Top of the Hill Grill in Brattleboro, Vermont

I had the pleasure of visiting Brattleboro, Vermont a few weeks ago.  This was right before Mother Nature, in the form of Irene, tried to wash this fair city away.  A few Carhartt colleagues and I were paying a visit to one of our iconic partners, Sam’s Outdoor Outfitters.  This is a store which started as an Army Navy Surplus store in 1932.  It was founded by Samuel Borofsky, a Russian Jewish immigrant. Today it is a third-generation family-owned business which features one of the most comprehensive collections of outdoor gear and apparel in the entire New England area.  I trust you LL Beaners out there will not take this as a slight to the giant of Freeport, Maine – Sam’s is more like what LL Bean was before there were over 25 of them around the country.

We had the pleasure of being guided into the nooks and crannies of this 50,000 square-foot store, which has outgrown itself many times over, by Pal Borofsky, the patriarch of the business which he runs with his son, Brad.  Pal regaled us with stories of unpacking and sorting bales of surplus merchandise in the basement of the store as a kid.  He told us about the pleasure of being able to make money out of what most people thought had little value.  He learned a terrific work ethic from his dad, and has passed it on to his son.  The story of Pal is a story worth reading about if you are interested in people who are truly exceptions.  Check out this article from the Vermont Business Magazine if you have time: http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3675/is_200409/ai_n9457448/

After Irene visited town and the rivers jumped their banks, it is worth noting that Sam’s was only closed for one day.  Even though thousands of pairs of shoes and boots were floating around the warehouse and silt was covering the basement receiving rooms, Pal and Brad knew that folks around Brattleboro would need the type of products they sold.  They are hard at work doing what the family has been doing since 1932: serving their community.

Brattleboro is a quaint Vermont town in the southeastern corner of the state.  Known for its strong art culture, it has a certain quirkiness about it that has always endeared this town to me.  Any place that has a town event called “The Strolling of the Heifers” (first weekend in June) is a place worth exploring.  The town started off as Fort Dummer in 1727.  It was built to protect the settlers in the area.  King George II had the area chartered as Brattleboro in 1752.  It was named after William Brattle, a colonel in the king’s militia who lived in Boston.  Oddly enough, Brattle never had the opportunity to see the town named after him, as he died in Nova Scotia in 1776 (a Tory, no doubt).  Brattleboro flourished as many mill towns did in New England in the 1800s.  A base of manufacturing was established when the Estey Organ Company opened in 1852.  The company produced thousands of pipe and reed organs until the company closed in the 1960s.  Brattleboro had the unique distinction of being named the “Organ Capital of the World” for a while.  Today this hilly town is known as a great arts community.  It has a very eclectic group of citizens who work together to keep this town vibrant and growing.

Just north of town is a small eatery that helps define Brattleboro.  The Top of the Hill Grill is an unexpected treat.  It is a converted old railroad car which is used as the kitchen and has a couple of walkup windows.  The menu is written on paper plates and stuck to the wall.  Also stuck to the wall are posters for the many concerts and art festivals taking place in the area.  The owner, Jonathan Julien, started the place over thirteen years ago with the idea of making “happy food” which would be filling and still allow you to have a few bucks left over in your wallet.  When I say this is the type of place that defines Brattleboro, it is because of the eclectic menu items on the wall.  The place has its own smokehouse, and BBQ is a key feature.  Beef brisket, smoked turkey, pulled pork, ribs, chicken.  Pinch yourself, as this is Vermont!  Burgers, catfish, hot dogs, sloppy joes, and more.  A selection of homemade sausage including spicy Andouille, Jamaican jerk, savory smoked pork, Bavarian turkey, and so on.  These are served up on a crusty roll and smothered with sautéed onions and green peppers.  There are specialty sandwiches of every description.  Any of the smoked meats can be made into a sandwich or a tortilla rollup.  The more plates I read, the more my mouth dropped.  Jambalaya, chicken and sausage gumbo, red beans and rice.  A broad selection of vegetarian fare is also available.  I could go on, but you get the picture.  A wild assortment of food, all made from scratch inside a tiny rail car.

Once you make your selection, you wander over to a patio that overlooks a wetlands leading into Brattleboro.  There are picnic tables and a deck house in case of a rainy or cool day.  It reminded me of having lunch in a tree house when I lived in Holden, Massachusetts.  It is always great to eat with those who don’t mind sharing.  We ordered two kinds of sausage, a couple of dogs, pulled pork and the rosemary garlic potatoes.  Both the smoked pork sausage and the Andouille sausage were very flavorful with a great crusty roll.  They had just the right amount of spice and the texture was perfect.  I must say that Jonathan smokes a very nice sausage.  The pulled pork had a nice smoky flavor and the sauce did not overpower the taste of the smoked meat.  The side of rosemary garlic potatoes was a great touch as opposed to basic fries.  The hot dogs were unfortunately pretty pedestrian, but with all the interesting things on the menu, it was my bad for ordering them.  The homemade desserts were tempting, but we had to hit the road to visit a couple of other Carhartt accounts in Vermont and New Hampshire. 

The Top of the Hill Grill has character.  The food is very surprising.  The setting is fantastic.  The parking lot has BMWs, Harleys, and F-150s.  You will find an interesting mix of people who have searched out a local treasure to enjoy good food and good conversation at a picnic table.  If you are driving through southern Vermont, I strongly suggest you stop and check this place out.  The only downside is that it is open April through October.  You better get on it if you are going there this year!  I also suggest you swing by downtown and visit Sam’s.  Another place with character!

Top of the Hill Grill
632 Putney Rd
Brattleboro, VT 05362
Phone - 802-258-9187

Monday – Saturday 11:00AM – 9:00PM
Sunday 12:00PM – 8:00PM
(April – October)
http://www.topofthehillgrill.com/

Steve Carter's August 2011 Dive of the Month: Rutt’s Hut in Clifton, New Jersey

  Several years ago a friend and colleague from Carhartt promised to take me to Rutt’s Hut in Clifton, New Jersey.  This is one of my bucket list dives and I looked forward to the visit.  Fast forward several years and Charlie Siracusa came through for me.  This past month we were travelling in New Jersey to award our good friends at Flemington Department store in Flemington, NJ a Hamilton Carhartt award for retail excellence.  A slight detour north would place us in Clifton in time for a couple of rippers!

Rutt’s Hut was founded in 1928 by Abe Rutt and his wife Anna.  Opened as a roadside hot dog stand, it quickly grew into an institution.  Locals speak of the number of times they visit Rutt’s and how there has always been a line snaking around the takeout counter.  In 1974, Rutt’s was sold to Nicholas Karagiorgis.  Very little changed under the new ownership, just as the locals had hoped.  The special sweet relish made from chopped onion, carrots, and cabbage was still piled on the dogs at the takeout counter or available in a jar on the restaurant side of the building.  As we drove up, I was surprised to see that the building offered a couple of options to enjoy a meal.  There was the carryout portion of the building, where lines formed in front of registers and very efficient counter jockeys yelled out orders and served up food with great efficiency.  There was also an adjoining bar/restaurant with access to all the dogs plus an admirable menu of true comfort food.  We chose the bar side of the building, as we wanted to try various items on the menu that could only be found there.  Next time I will most certainly experience the counter side of the operation.

I thought a visit to Rutt’s Hut would only be about the dog.  It was so much more.  We entered the bar and it was like we had entered a time warp.  The perfect bar with a couple of suits nailing a few dogs and a draft beer.  A table of construction workers enjoying a cool place for lunch and the blue plate specials.  A few families enjoying lunch and catching up on the dirt of the day.  To top it off, the bartender was somewhere north of 70 years old and had the look of a very crusty individual.  He was very adept at drawing a mug of beer and shouting the occasional “rippa all da way” (a ripper with mustard and relish) into the mike at the bar.  I am sure he was full of stories but they would have to wait for another visit, as our group of Carhartt stalwarts were there for the food.  The menu had the star of the show at the top:  $1.85 for a ripper.  The ripper is a deep fried hotdog.  As it cooks, the skin of the dog rips apart, thus the name.  You can order them in various degrees of doneness.  If you are all about a crunchy dog, order the cremator.  I have been told this has the texture and taste of bacon.

We stuck with a round of rippers for the table.  The dogs arrived with the classic ripping of the skin which created a great chewy texture on the outside of the dog while leaving the inside incredibly juicy.  Slathering on the classic relish made for a great appetizer.  Aside from just about any sandwich you can think of, there were classic blue plate specials offered on the full menu.  Maryland chicken, Vermont turkey, Virginia ham (they had a real state theme going on), stuffed flounder, scallops, Delmonico steak –  all of these are served up with your choice of potatoes, corn, peas, mac and cheese, and on and on.  This side of the building certainly had the classic DNA of a diner as opposed to the classic hot dog stand that was just around the corner.  An interesting juxtaposition that I am still trying to understand.  With that said, it works!  We ordered the Vermont turkey blue plate, which came with mashed potatoes, stuffing, cranberries and gravy.  The meal was wolfed down very quickly and with no complaints at all.  A surprising hit.

Something on the sandwich menu caught my eye.  A grilled Taylor ham and cheese.  I had not heard about Taylor ham and decided to spring for the $1.95 that one costs.  As it turns out, Taylor ham is what the rest of the world calls a pork roll.  It was originally developed by John Taylor in 1856 in Trenton, NJ.  He originally called it Taylor’s Prepared Ham, but had to change the name in the early 1900s as the Pure Food and Drug Act of 1906 made it illegal to call the product “ham.”  Today, pork roll is seen on many breakfast menus in the eastern Pennsylvania and New Jersey area.  It looks like a slice of bologna that has a few cuts on the edges to keep it from curling on the grill.  I found it to be worth about the $1.95 that I paid for it.

We thoroughly enjoyed our visit to Rutt’s Hut.  A place made famous by its deep fried dogs, homemade onion rings, and fries with your choice of gravy, cheese, or mozzarella cheese.  This is a place that evokes emotion from those that love it as well as from those that don’t understand that a rude counterman or bartender along with a dirty counter and a parking lot full of scavenging seagulls is what makes for a great dive.  I pity the finicky eater.  If you find yourself in Northern Jersey anywhere near Rutherford or Clifton, pull into this establishment hard by the Passaic River and see what the love affair is all about.  As Jack Buck once said, “this place is as cool as the other side of the pillow”.

Rutt’s Hut
417 River Road
Clifton, NJ 07014
973-779-8615

Sunday – Thursday          8:00AM – 11:00PM
Friday – Saturday             8:00AM – 1:00AM

Steve Carter's July 2011 Dive of the Month: Harold’s Restaurant in Gaffney, South Carolina

I happened to be heading down I-85 not too long ago with a couple of compatriots from Carhartt.  I requested that we pull off at the Gaffney exit and head into town.  Gaffney is a typical sleepy little town that could be anywhere in the US.  It happens to be in South Carolina.  It is the kind of town that dried up just a little bit more when the interstate came through many years ago.  It has turned into one of those cities that try to eke out an existence by hiring some hotshot planner to redevelop the downtown area into a historic district.  The assumption is that local people will shop there as opposed to driving to a Wal-Mart just outside the city limits, or that people from outside the county will be drawn by the newly rediscovered charm.  As someone who likes to get off the highway, I can tell you this plan seldom works.  The convenience of the highway has led to the destruction of hundreds of towns throughout America.  It is a sad fact, but one that we all have come to accept.  Part of this sad fact is we have become a nation that is happy to just “fill it up” at a McDonalds, Wendy’s, Arby’s, Friday’s, Pizza Hut, Taco Bell, Applebee’s, or one of countless other franchise operations.  We don’t learn a thing about a town and its people when we stop at these places and we pick up nothing of the local culture.  However, we arrive at our destination much faster than in days of yore.  The rant is over.

Gaffney is a town of about 13,000 souls and is the county seat of Cherokee County.  It was named after Michael Gaffney, who emigrated from Ireland in 1797.  In 1804, he built a tavern and a hotel of sorts on a crossroads.  One road went from the hill country of North Carolina and ended in Charleston and the other road went from Georgia to Charlotte.  This crossroads became known, appropriately enough, as Gaffney’s Crossroad.  Michael died in 1854.  In 1872, the area which had built up around the tavern became known as Gaffney City.  Gaffney became a hub city for the textile industry which flourished in South Carolina until the late 1980s. 

Despite the best efforts of the local leaders, Gaffney has not yet regained the vibrancy it once had.  The downtown area does indeed have some beautiful structures, and many of the buildings appear to be in good shape with bright paint jobs and colorful awnings.  If you choose to walk the main drag as opposed to do a drive-by, you will see that there are as many “for lease” signs as there are “open” signs in the windows.  We did find an interesting claim to fame for this fair town.  In 1967-1968, Lee Roy Martin became known as the Gaffney Strangler for killing four women.

I am sure if we had taken the time to visit the Cherokee County History Museum we would have found many facts about this town that would have been more charming, but we did not venture off the highway on our way to Maudlin.  We had stopped in Gaffney to visit Harold’s Restaurant, a place which was recommended and a place that even the Food Network thought was worth stopping for.  Let me say here that though I have been to many places I have seen on Food Network, I trust my friends and retail partners much more than taking Guy’s word for it!

Harold’s was opened in its existing location in 1932 by Harold Tindill.  Over the past 79 years there have only been three owners, and all have seen the wisdom of not changing the name.  According to legend, the original goal of Harold’s was to serve good food, made from scratch at a fair price.  It appears to me that the current owner has lived up to this credo.  I love a place that is open at 7:00 in the morning and doesn’t close till 8:00 at night.  This is a place that understands the meaning of being a part of the community.  I also love a place that has a menu as long as your arm and will make anything on the menu regardless of what the clock on the wall reads.  This is a place that respects your inner clock. 

At 8:30 we walked in and found ourselves to be the only folks in the place.  We sat down at a booth and started to read the menu.  It is the type of menu that had us talking about our childhood.  Fried bologna with cheese ($2.59 grilled or on toast – thick cut), peanut butter and jelly (1.59), pimento cheese on toast, BLT ($2.59 with real tomatoes), homemade chicken salad or tuna ($2.29), salt and pepper catfish sandwich ($2.59), corn dog ($1.59), the World Famous hot dog ($1.19), World Famous chili burger ($1.39), homemade bacon egg spread ($1.69) –  wait a minute, what the heck is bacon egg spread?  I will get back to that in a minute.  I have only given you a quarter of the sandwich menu.  They also have sides which feature cornbread, pimento cheese fries, crispy seasoned tater wedges, fatback, slaw, beer battered onion rings (our great waitress let us know that these were not made in-house – I tip for honesty), and fried pickles of the dill variety, among other treats.  All-you-can-eat Wednesday will provide you with all the pinto beans seasoned with ham, cornbread, fatback, and onions with homemade chow-chow you can eat (I am not going to mention the price because I don’t think they could manage the deluge of customers next Wednesday).  Of course they serve sweet tea and Coke products, but they also have Red Bull and $1.50 pints of beer.  An interesting menu. 

Let me get back to breakfast.  We tried the fried bologna, the World Famous hot dog (fully loaded), and the yet-to-be-identified homemade bacon and egg spread on toast.  The order took about 5 minutes to assemble in the kitchen, and Susie was soon putting plates on the table.  The world famous hot dog is a steamed dog in a plain bun with cheese, bacon, onions, mustard, and chili.  While it paled in comparison to many coneys they serve in Detroit, I give them a solid B for effort.  They apparently serve a ton of them, but most people have never had a real coney to compare them to.  I am sure it is the best in Cherokee County and maybe even the best in all of South Carolina.  The fried bologna got rave reviews.  It was thick sliced, fried with the right amount of “burn,” and served on a toasted bun with a fresh tomato.   I was getting hung up on the tomato because we were still a month away from getting a good tomato in Michigan.

The piece de resistance was indeed the homemade bacon egg spread.  Imagine deviled eggs turned into egg salad and somehow a faint taste of bacon added, though no trace of bacon could be found in examining the $1.69 creation.  I am a huge fan of deviled eggs and to have them in the form of a sandwich was like hitting for the cycle in my book.  They sell this in quarts to go for $4.89 and I was very tempted to take one along for the ride.  A hearty late breakfast with friends at Harold’s.  The discovery of bacon cheese spread.  It was going to be a very good day.

Harold’s sells about everything they make in bulk and must do a huge take-out business.  The menu indicates platters will be made for weddings, office meetings, receptions, reunions, and even for the loss of a loved one.  I would like to be remembered by an order of the jumbo wings, a dozen of the homemade meatballs, and yes, a full quart of the bacon cheese spread.  If you find yourself travelling across northwest South Carolina, stop in and visit with Tony Lipscomb.  Ask him why his chili burger is made with a meatball instead of a hamburger.  A most interesting place.  He doesn’t need the Food Network seal of approval – he has the respect of a community that has been stopping in for over 79 years.

Harold’s Restaurant
602 N. Limestone Street
Gaffney, SC 29340
(864) 489-9153
7:00 a.m. - 8:00 p.m. Monday through Saturday

New Orleans Restaurant Update from Bill Ives

New Orleans Restaurant Update May 2011 by Bill Ives

Steve Carter's June 2011 Dive of the Month: Barbecue in Austin, Texas

In a way, a recent trip to Clarkston, Michigan caused me to spend four days in Texas.  I ventured to Clarkston to check out the Detroit Free Press restaurant of the year.  The Union Woodshop was touted as having great BBQ.  Imagine that, great BBQ in a BBQ wasteland!  It appeared that we were finally going to get some BBQ to crow about in Michigan!  I really did want to love this place.  I tried a cross-section of the menu.  Pulled pork, brisket, smoked chicken, sausage, a wood-fired pizza (kind of a giveaway that BBQ isn’t what they are all about), and burnt ends.  I admit that the burnt ends were slightly above average, but the overall experience was very disappointing.  At least in the front of the house there was no passion for the food.  Part-time wait staff doing a part-time job with a very limited knowledge base about the food and the soul of The Union Woodshop.  I left very disappointed and still in need of some great BBQ.  It was then and there I decided a road trip to the hill country of Texas was called for to satisfy my quest for some really great brisket served up by people who love what they do.

I chose Austin as my base camp.  A great city with a wonderful wacky vibe.  It is also kind of in the middle of what is known as the Texas BBQ trail.  I would be able to hit at least 12 spots over my few days and tie in a few other treats for myself like a minor league ball game or two.  I was fortunate enough to have a sidekick along for the trip who is always open to hitting a local dive.  We grabbed some tickets and off we went.

Day 1

We arrived in Austin late on a Thursday afternoon.  We threw our gear in the room and walked across 6^th street to get to the legendary Stubb’s BBQ.  The place was hopping, but we managed to get a small table in the bar.  We were there only to kick off the BBQ quest and didn’t need to wait around for a more formal table.  We jumped right into it and ordered brisket, chicken, mac and cheese, along with something called Serrano cheese spinach.  An adult beverage also made it to the table.  We plowed into the first stop on the BBQ tour and realized we had made a rookie mistake.  We had to cool it with the sides if we were to hit all the joints we had in mind!  I put the first piece of brisket into my mouth and realized right away that the crowd at Stubb’s was there for the great music and not the Q.  The chicken had no smoke flavor.  I felt like I was back in Michigan!

If it tells you anything, the star of the plate was the Serrano cheese spinach, which turned out to be a casserole that had a great bite to it.  Disappointed but unbowed we left Stubb’s (which really is a cool music venue) and headed down the street in search of salvation. To answer our prayers we stumbled upon a bright blue cart right down the street that had “Bar-B-Q Heaven” painted on the side.  I took this as a sign and stopped to visit.   I met Darren who had been smoking brisket for 17 years.  He learned the trade from his dad who had been in business for 27 years before handing it off to his son.  Here was a man passionate about his craft!  He took us around back to show us his smoker and explain the 17-hour process required to do it right.  He provided us with a sample of brisket and I knew right then and there that the trip was not a boondoggle after all!

This was real brisket.  A tremendous smoke flavor, paired with great meat, and just the right amount of fat to make a piece of his brisket melt in your mouth.  He is open from 4:00 PM to 4:00 AM six days a week.  With a new bounce in our step we headed for the last destination of the evening, The Iron Works BBQ.  It was nearing closing time as we picked up our trays and headed to the counter.  As it was the last stop of the night, we tried the brisket along with smoked turkey.  We fell into a trap that was repeated too often by having a few sides as well.  We promised each other that from that point on sides would consist of no more than pickles and onions.  We liked the vibe of this place as we headed out to the back porch to try their fare.  The brisket, while much better than Stubb’s, didn’t hold a candle to Bar-B-Q Heaven.  The star of the plate was the smoked turkey.  It had a great smoky flavor with a pepper rub.  It made us discuss the value of developing a smoked turkey trail across part of America.  Day one was behind us and we had hit three distinctive Austin BBQ joints.  The bright blue wagon of Bar-B-Q Heaven won the day, hands down.

Day 2

We headed out bright and early on the road to hit some of the most hallowed BBQ ground this country has to offer.  We started off in Lockhart.  This small town south of Austin was the southern terminus of the Chisholm Trail.  There has been a lot of beef going through this town over the last 130 years!  The first stop of the day was Black’s Barbecue.  This has been run by the Black family since 1932 and touts itself as the oldest barbecue joint in Texas.  We jumped into the line and made our way past the sides to the pit master.  We were now in real BBQ country!  The smell and the overall ambience made us almost forget that we had another four places to hit that day!  Pictures of the Black family and team pictures from seemingly every high school team in Lockhart’s history adorned the walls.  It was 10:00 in the morning and opening time for the Black team.  Mr. Black (4^th generation) greeted us as we entered the place, a very welcoming environment.  We ordered a third-pound of brisket and a half chicken and proceeded to a picnic table.  I had to try some slaw – I have a hard time passing on the sides.  The chicken was so good I started to giggle as soon as I tasted it.  This was chicken as it should be done.  The smoky flavor was very present but didn’t overpower the moist chicken.  I almost went for more but my sidekick reminded me that it was only 10:10 and this was technically a late breakfast we were having.  The brisket was excellent as well. 

Following Black’s we ventured to the other side of the town square to Smitty’s Market.  Though this place has been Smitty’s only since 1999, it housed the famous Kreuz Market for more than 99 years before Nina Schmidt Sells took it over from her father.  She got everything but the name of the place, as Kreuz moved to another location in town.  There is enough of a story in the split to write a book, I am sure, but we were there for the Q.  When you walk into Smitty’s Market, it is like walking into a holy place.  I walked past a long row of benches stained by over 100 years of smoke and the meat dripping off the required butcher paper.  I truly expected music from the BBQ gods to start playing.  This is a special place.  We walked into the room housing the pits and were met by a young lady and the pit boss. We had quickly realized that this trip had to be as much about the sausage as it was about the brisket.  The game plan turned into an order of brisket, sausage, pickles, and onions.  No sides – I was all about discipline now.  We were served on butcher paper which was wrapped, and we headed out to the dining hall.  The sausage was excellent and the brisket the bomb!  The ambience was second to none as you could see the special patina throughout the building that comes from well over a century of hardwood smoke.  We had to hit the road as Lockhart held one more place for us.

Kreuz Market was in a newer building on the north side of town.  It moved out there in 1999 after starting as a business in 1900 where Smitty’s now hangs their sign.  They have built a true temple to BBQ.  The menu, as it is with all real BBQ joints, is short and sweet.  It is clear that Kreuz does not believe in vegetables getting in the way of great BBQ or in sauce masking the flavor of great brisket.  We ventured back to the smoker and I swear I found Elvis’s long-lost brother cutting brisket and shoulder clod to order (see pic).  We ordered a link of jalapeno cheese sausage to go along with the brisket.  We carried the butcher paper to a picnic table in the dining hall and dug in.  We went a bit overboard with the amount of brisket, but was it ever great!  The charred bark on the meat was so full of taste that my taste buds are still dancing.  The link was a home run as well.  The spicy pepper flavor was a perfect foil to the smoked link.  Wow, this town seems like the perfect place to spend the rest of my days as far as I am concerned.  Great people and great BBQ.  What more can you ask for?  But, alas, we had other places to go on this fine day, so we jumped in the car and headed further down the road to Luling.

Luling is an interesting town.  Once called the “toughest town in Texas,” it has since lost that vibe.  The main drag through town is called Davis Street, a street that was once the bustling center of commerce. This was just what the doctor ordered – a long walk before the next bout with BBQ took place. It is too bad that the town is only about five blocks long.  We ventured into the Chamber of Commerce to find out a bit more about Luling.  I was curious as to how it got its name. An interesting note is that no one seemed to know the answer.  I checked it out online later that evening and concluded that there was indeed a great deal of confusion as to the origin of the name.  I suggested to the ladies that they make up a story and stick to it.  A couple of guys from Michigan would never be the wiser.  We continued to chat with two of Luling’s finest as they told us about the upcoming watermelon festival called the Watermelon Thump.  It is complete with watermelon spitting contests and the crowning of the “Thump Queen” (that is indeed what they call this lucky lady).  We also toured the Central Texas Oil Patch Museum at the insistence of the chamber.

At last we felt we could face another round of brisket.   We entered City Market and stood in line to get through the swinging double doors that led to the pit.  Again we were greeted by smiling men holding sharp knives.  We ordered our regular of brisket and a link.  It was wrapped in butcher paper and we made our way to a table.  While most of the places we have visited don’t really talk much about sauce, City Market has an interesting sweet peppery sauce that is bright orange and held in high esteem by the locals.  This is for good reason, as we used some of this sauce on both the brisket and the sausage. The brisket and sausage were excellent, but by now our taste buds were so accustomed to truly great brisket and links that we really couldn’t decide if we were doing City Market justice.  We were getting jaundiced, this was “merely” another great BBQ joint!

We hit the road and headed north after strolling down Davis Street one last time.  We were heading up north to Elgin, the home of Meyer’s Elgin Smokehouse.  Home stretch.  On the way to Elgin a funny thing happened.  We made a pit stop in Bastrop to look for a good milkshake.  Founded in 1832, Bastrop is a beautiful town sitting on the banks of the Colorado River.  During the Spanish colonial period in Texas, El Camino Real crossed the Colorado River in what is known as Bastrop today.  This town was one of the original counties in the Republic of Texas and they seem to be very proud of this.  Texas does love its history.  As you can imagine another walk was called for and we ventured down Main Street to the Historical Society Museum.  This is a very cool looking building but unfortunately for us it was closed.

As we headed back downtown we came upon Lock Drug, an old fashioned drug store with a soda fountain.  We were in luck!  There is a marble counter with stools on your left as you enter.  The shelves are well stocked with the typical items you find in a CVS, except this place had charm.  We eased ourselves up to the counter and looked forward to a bit of town history form the young man behind the counter.  We quickly learned that he had moved up from Houston less than a year ago and had recently been discharged from the service.  Bastrop was a great place to “chill out” and decide what he wanted to do next.  We decided what we wanted him to do next was to make a chocolate soda.  Alas they were out of vanilla ice cream.  No worries I told him, let’s make it with chocolate ice cream!  They were also out of chocolate ice cream.   An ice cream store out of both vanilla and chocolate.  This was a first for me.  I had an old boss that used to say there was never an excuse for us at Carhartt to run out of stock in one of our core items.  In making his point, he asked me on many occasions if I had ever seen an ice cream store run out of vanilla or chocolate.  I hope I run into Robert again someday to let him know that I indeed have now seen an ice cream store run out of these two core flavors.  I doubt that he would have accepted running out of a size of an R01 regardless of this story.  We figured out a drink he could make for us and jumped back in the car.  I won’t go into the fact that we found out that milkshake base is a tasteless base that looks like vanilla but is only used as a base to thicken a malt or shake.  We were now refreshed and heading to our last BBQ stop of the day. 

Elgin is a town that was founded in 1872 with cotton and railroads as the reason it was put on the map.  Today a big reason it is on the map is because it has several BBQ joints.  We chose to visit Meyer’s Elgin Smokehouse on the advice of friends.  We walked into Meyer’s feeling we were on a brisket death march by now.  We asked for an embarrassingly small amount of brisket and one of their links.  Meyer’s was opened in 1949, but really got its start in 1888 when Henry Meyer came over from Germany and settled in central Texas.  His family recipe was handed down and his son started to manufacture and distribute the product outside of Elgin in 1949.  This is yet another fourth-generation story.  It appears that BBQ families know how to keep their kids working at home!  Back to the BBQ.  We took our butcher paper with a pitiful amount of brisket and the smallest link they could find to our table.  The link was every bit as good as expected.  The brisket was mouthwatering I am sure, but my mouth could no longer water.  We left Elgin knowing if we had made this our first stop of the day we would have waxed eloquently about the melt in your mouth flavor of their.  As it was, we just wanted to head back to Austin. On the way out of Elgin we passed another BBQ mecca, The Southside Market.  It is interesting to note that The Southside calls itself the oldest BBQ joint in Texas.  There seem to be several places that are the oldest.

That night I visited yet another shrine, but this was a shrine to baseball.  Dell Diamond is a little gem in Round Rock and home of the triple A affiliate of the Texas Rangers, the Round Rock Express.  We watched a lively game played against the Reno Aces.  I believe this was the first time I had ever been to a ball park and didn’t have at least one dog!

Day 3

A change of pace was called for.  A long walk around Austin led me to believe that everyone in Austin must work out to some degree.  I have never seen so many joggers, bike riders and power walkers in one place! The walk by the river led us to a statue of Stevie Ray Vaughn.  This is a town that knows how to pay homage to its legends!  We decided on a non-BBQ joint for lunch.  Met up with a group of friends my BBQ sidekick works with.  They all work in the field of knowledge management.  I work in the field of coats and pants.  A most interesting lunch.  We went to Trudy’s, which is a very cool Tex-Mex place in Austin.  Though this loosely qualifies as a chain (there are 3 locations), who was I to argue with a bunch of knowledge managers?  It turns out they know something about food.  We were at the original location in central Austin.  I was told the margaritas were to die for.  I don’t know about dying for them but this place indeed has taken the art of the margarita to a new level.  I won’t get into the food too deeply here as we are talking about BBQ, but if you ever want to have a breaded and fried avocado stuffed with spicy chicken and cheese topped with a nice Suiza sauce, well this is your place!

We finished lunch by hitting a nearby ice cream joint called Amy’s.  This is the kind of place that serves up a mix (I had coconut rum chocolate mixed with raisins) and entertains you while the mix is going on (throws it in the air and so forth), slaps it into a cup and charges you six bucks.  Strangely enough it was worth every penny.  Amy’s was a great place to cleanse the pallet after some very fine Tex-Mex.

We bid adieu to our knowledge management peeps and decided another walk was called for.  This walk took us into the Texas state house.  A very cool capitol with a lot of stars decorating the building.  They do love their stars in Texas!  We decided a visit to a true Texas roadhouse was in order, and not the kind you find on 6th Street.  We jumped in the car and took off for the small town of Hunter.  We wanted to stop for BBQ on the way to Hunter.  We ventured into San Marcos and kept hitting dead ends.  We finally found Hays County BBQ on a county road leading out of San Marcos.  Hays Co BBQ might just be a hidden gem.  Mike and Asenette Hernandez took over the old Woody’s BBQ in 2007 and have been smoking meat in their own way.  The brisket was perfect.  Juicy but with a great bark that brought out the dry rub recipe and the 17 hours of smoke.  I jumped off the wagon and had some pinto beans that were great.  Give this place a go if you are near San Marcos.  You won’t be disappointed.

We headed south toward Hunter and soon found ourselves in front of Riley’s Tavern.  Story has it that 17-year old J.C. Riley borrowed a Model T Ford and drove up to Austin in September of 1932.  As luck would have it, he camped out on the steps of the state house and was the first person to get a beer license following prohibition.  Riley’s is a classic, and the people who have taken it over have left it just like J.C. would have wanted it.  You walk into a small bar with a dance floor and small stage in the next room.  There is seating outside, but it wouldn’t be mistaken for anything one might call fancy.  Rusted chairs and a few tables that were on their last legs welcome you.  It is a great place to sit and meet with the locals.  A couple of frosty beverages later the band started up inside.  The Derailers, a true Texas band, were just what the doctor ordered.  They live on the edge of country music, but there was a trace of bebop in their licks.  They had the folks dancing in no time.  A night of great BBQ, great music and watching the locals enjoy themselves finished off our off day.

Day 4

The day started off at one of the many food trailers that are all over Austin.  Torchy’s Tacos seemed like the perfect way to start off the day as we met up with one of the knowledge managers and her spouse. They had a few places in mind to show us.  We ventured down to the farmers market which was like no other farmers market I had been to.  In between the typical fruit and vegetable stalls were excellent little food stalls, selling everything from gourmet tacos to duck egg omelets with house made chorizo sausage.  I was continuing to fall in love with Austin. We were herded over to East Austin to get in line at Franklin BBQ.  I was told that they tend to run out of BBQ by noon and it is worth standing in line for.  I stood in line for two hours in the hot Texas sun to try Aaron Franklin’s brisket.  When I finally made it to the front of the line I understood why we waited so long.  This guy will talk to anyone and makes you feel like you are the only one in his joint.  He was the youngest looking pit master that we ran into on the entire trip.  He got his start working with the folks from the legendary Louie Mueller BBQ and bought his first smoker from them when he had built up a very small nest egg.  He came close to perfecting the fine art of smoking and soon had a food trailer going in the finest Austin tradition.  People beat a path to his door and he became successful enough to move to a building on 11th Street.  Wow, was this place great!  We had been all over the place eating in legendary Q joints that were fourth and fifth generation establishments.  Here we were at an upstart’s place, and I have to say it was the best I have ever tasted!

We had planned on hitting another baseball game that evening and had a few hours before we had to drive up to Round Rock.  Learning that Franklin BBQ had its roots from Louie Mueller, we decided to head up to Taylor and visit Louie Mueller BBQ.  The town of Taylor reminds me of an old movie set.  A main street with high sidewalks to allow for loading and unloading, a movie theater that hadn’t shown a movie in quite a while, and large cotton warehouses.  Kind of a town that time has forgotten.  When we walked into Mueller’s it was another magical experience.  Here was a large BBQ hall filled with people sitting at tables coated with that special smoky patina.  The walls were also a perfect brown color from years of smoke.  It seems that everyone who comes through the door tacks a business card to the wall.  You can tell how long they have been there based on how much smoky patina they have on them.  The last link and brisket of the trip were very good.  We decided to splurge and have a bit of homemade cobbler with Blue Bell ice cream.  They had not run out of vanilla.  It was fantastic!  I think Aaron Franklin has surpassed his old master, but Aaron has a ways to go before his joint will have the special ambiance of Louie Mueller.  We watched the Iowa Cubs and the Round Rock Express bang out a game that evening and the game was followed by a concert featuring the western swing band Asleep at the Wheel.

This Texas BBQ quest was undertaken to assure myself that even though I happen to live in a BBQ wasteland, others can enjoy this great American food.  There are many more central Texas towns to visit and partake of BBQ.  I will get to Lexington next time.  As summer starts to descend and I make my yearly visit to Cape Cod, I wonder if searching for the perfect lobster roll might not be a bad idea.

Union Woodshop – Clarkston MI
Stubb’s – Austin TX
Bar-B-Q Heaven - Austin TX
Iron Works BBQ - Austin TX
Black’s BBQ – Lockhart TX
Smitty’s Market – Lockhart TX
Kreuz Market – Lockhart TX
City Market – Luling TX
Luling BBQ – Luling TX
Lock Drug – Bastrop TX
Meyer’s Elgin Smokehouse – Elgin TX
Trudy’s – Austin TX
Amy’s – Austin TX
Hays County BBQ – San Marcos TX
Torchy’s Tacos – Austin TX
Franklin BBQ – Austin TX
Louie Mueller BBQ – Taylor TX

Texas BBQ Trail http://www.tourism-tools.com/texasbbq/Welcome.html
The Best BBQ Restaurant in America http://www.bonappetit.com/magazine/slideshows/2011/07/aaron-franklin-barbecue-best-restaurant-in-america

Steve Carter's May 2011 Dive of the Month: El Barzón in Detroit, Michigan

I am breaking one of my own rules by writing about a place that actually has white linen table cloths on its tables.  I trust that you will forgive me if you ever have the opportunity to visit this special place!  A drive down Michigan Avenue from Dearborn into the bowels of Detroit is always an interesting ride.  One is stuck by the dilapidated store fronts which have been boarded up for years.  Each building has a story to tell.  Next to a burned out building you will find an entrepreneur opening a small clothing store or a food market.  It will be many years before the entrepreneurial spirit can overshadow the decay of the last 45 years in this town.  With this said, there are some strides being made aside from the garish strip clubs which seem to be the only new construction on this stretch of road.

Hope exists at the corner of Junction and Michigan where El Barzón opened in 2007.  A Mexican restaurant situated hard by the Mexican Town area offers a menu which is half Mexican and half Italian. This part of town has seen better times, and aside of one of the last Fincks Overall signs painted on the side of a building nearby, there is not much to bring an outsider to this part of town.  El Barzón has a story worth telling.

Norberto Garita is a native of Puebla, Mexico and worked as a cook at an elegant Italian restaurant in the Detroit area – Il Posto – until it closed.  His training leading up to that was at fine Italian restaurants in the New York City area.  After the closing of Il Posto, with some encouragement from his friends, he decided to open his own place in a part of town that is known as a haven for good Mexican food.  Norberto and his wife, Silvia, decided to bring great Italian food along with the food from their native country to a forlorn corner on Michigan Avenue.  We are so much the richer for their decision!

When you drive up to El Barzón, you may wonder where the parking lot is.  The answer is that there isn’t one.  A guy with a big smile will jump out of a pickup and help you find a place on the street to park.  It is good form to give the guy a few bucks as he is keeping an eye on your car in all types of weather.  When you enter the restaurant, if you look to the left, you will more than likely see Norberto putting the finishing touches on the special porcini mushroom and meat ravioli of the day or finishing off the best gnocchi in the city (sorry Fran).  You will find the restaurant decorated with Mexican flair, but will hear Italian music being piped in.  The real dichotomy sets in when you open the menu to see half of it dedicated to Mexican food and half to Italian fare. 

A basket of fresh tortilla chips and a couple of sauces greet you as you order your favorite adult beverage.  Everytime I go in with intent to focus on the left side of the menu, I end up on the right side.  It takes at least 15 minutes to take in the menu, and I suggest you give some of their excellent appetizers a try.  My favorite is the frito misto, which is perfectly prepared calamari and shrimp mixed with zucchini.  The Italian sausage will get you leaning to the Italian side of the menu as you look around for a piece of bread to sop up the sauce.  The final appetizer to try is the chiles rellenos.  A great tomato sauce along with the cheese and beef.  This allows you to contrast the flavors that await you as you arrive at the moment where you have to choose the left side or the right side!  But wait – before you try the left or the right side, try a couple of the tacos.  Whether you choose the chorizo, the asada, or the goat shoulder, you will now have done your homework in preparation of the main course.

I will give you a few of my favorites from both sides, and I think you will start to understand just why this very eclectic menu works.  I am a fan of mole, and the enchiladas de mole poblano is a big hit.  You get a couple of enchiladas filled with meat and cheese with the Garitas’ excellent mole sauce.  Their mole is classic, with chili seco, tomatillo, anise, chocolate, banana, cinnamon and a few more special ingredients.  The pipian is a chicken breast with a green mole made form pumpkin seeds, jalapeño peppers, and tomatillo.  It is a taste adventure!  The regional specials will bring you back to this place!

The other side of the menu is equally magnificent.  The homemade pastas make all the difference.  The mushroom and ricotta ravioli is a favorite of mine.  The gnocchi with pesto sauce is excellent.  A signature dish is the spaghetti scampi El Barzón – a great tomato sauce with plenty of garlic, mixed with perfect pasta and mounded with arugula which supplies the right amount of bite to the pasta and scampi.  While I haven’t had the lasagna, I have seen nothing but clean plates and satisfied smiles after the generous portion has been taken care of.  The strozzapreti norcina allows you to have the hand-crafted, twisted pasta with a ragu of the Italian sausage.  The menu goes on and on.  The great thing is that each dish is individually prepared using homemade ingredients.  You can taste the love they put into their food.

While I am not a big dessert guy, my arm has been twisted a time or two, and I have shared the flan, profiteroles, tiramisu, and several of the excellent fruit sorbets.  Come to El Barzón to enjoy the intense flavors of the wide variety of menu items.  Set aside a couple of hours to share several dishes with your friends.  A barzón is the part of a horse-drawn plow that joins the horse with the plow. The name El Barzón comes from a Mexican revolutionary song about injustice in the fields.  Traditional Mexican food from the region of Puebla, and classic Italian dishes which match those of any fine Italian restaurant, may seem at odds, but when you leave the restaurant, and the guy with the big smile is there to greet you and escort you to your car, you may start to think that all things are possible.  Even in Detroit.

El Barzón
3710 Junction Rd.
Detroit, Michigan 48210
313-894-2070

Monday - closed
Tuesday - 11am-2:30pm, 5pm-9pm
Wednesday - 11am-2:30pm, 5pm-9pm
Thursday - 11am-2:30pm, 5pm-9pm
Friday - 11am-2:30pm, 5pm-10pm
Saturday - 4pm-10pm
Sunday - 12pm-9pm

Steve Carter's April 2011 Dive of the Month: 13 Coins Restaurant in Seattle, Washington

 

 

 

 

 

I found myself in Seattle recently and did not have time to run to my favorite haunts downtown or out at the Ballard Locks.  I called my sister to find a joint and she steered me to 13 Coins close to SeaTac.  She told me it was a 24-hour-a-day diner that offered pancakes all day as well as perfectly done steak Sinatra.  I was on my way!  It took me awhile to find it, as it is located on the ground floor of a rather innocuous looking office building right across from the airport.  I think had it been dark outside the “open” sign behind a 12 foot high plate glass window would have tipped me off.  I parked the car and walked the wrong way around the building, but soon found myself in front of a wooden door.  I opened it up and I was transported back to 1969.

I was greeted by a hostess with tall hair and an armload of menus.  There was a dining room to the left and a counter and booth area to the right.  I wanted to get up close and personal to the cooks, so I asked for counter seating.  The counter has these very highback chairs that put me in mind of flying a fighter jet.  These chairs made it possible to be private even if someone was seated right next to you.  I sense that this is usually the case, as there was a considerable amount of traffic at the chef’s counter.  I made myself at home, and with the help of Mike, my server, I started to review the menu.  I swear there are at least 125 items on the menu!  I will list a few of the items to show the diversity of this place.  Pan fried oysters, wild salmon meuniere, veal piccata, calf’s liver and onions, fettuccine Venetia, seafood frittata, Joe’s special (spinach, chopped sirloin, eggs, onions, and parmesan cheese), smoked cheddar and prosciutto macaroni, bucket of clams, barbequed pork, seared duck with blueberry sauce, and I am not even getting into the breakfast items! I have never taken so much time to read a menu.

Mike gave me a knowing smile and told me to take my time.  As I continued to meander through the menu, I started to realize that there was something akin to a Vegas floorshow taking place right before me.  There were four short order cooks all over the ovens, fryers, grills, and other equipment.  There were flashes of fire and orders being called out, and food runners bringing out more fresh ingredients.  What amazed me was that each meal seemed to be made from scratch right before my eyes.  I saw everything from steaks being perfectly prepared to crab eggs Benedict with perfectly poached eggs prepared with great care and pride.  I was really enjoying the show when Mike came by and told me that he would start charging me by the hour if I didn’t get something ordered pretty soon!

I told him I wanted something that I had not had before.  There were many items on the menu that fit this bill, but he advised I try the Hangtown fry which is listed under the Della Casa section of the menu.  It is made up by sautéing oysters, bacon, onions, and bell peppers, and then eggs are added and it is baked the form of a frittata.  He suggested a half order of the hash browns served extra crispy.  I asked why it was called the Hangtown fry and he put his arms on the counter and told me a great story.  The meal was invented during the gold rush in California by a miner who struck it rich in the gold fields outside of Placerville.  He came to town and wanted the most expensive meal he could get.  Oysters were brought in on ice from 100 miles away, so they were very expensive; eggs had to be shipped in as well, and as they are very fragile, they were an expensive ingredient; and bacon was brought in from the Midwest.  These were mixed together and served to the miner.  As it turns out the original name of Placerville was Hangtown (I guess for obvious reasons) and this concoction became known as the Hangtown fry.  He then told me the story was probably bull, but the dish did come from California and has been on menus  for over 100 years in San Francisco.  They ripped off the item and made it, according to him, better because of the Northwest fresh ingredients.

I watched my meal being prepared as part of the ongoing floor show.  When it was put down in front of me, along with sourdough bread, it was almost too beautiful to dive into!   I got over my initial hesitation and was rewarded with my first taste of this special treat.  The oysters and thick diced bacon play very well with each other.  I had never thought of pigs and oysters in the same meal, but I am a fan of the pairing now.  The frittata with the onions and peppers was the perfect delivery system for the oysters and bacon.  I am not sure of what the origins really were for the Hangtown fry, but I am glad I was introduced to it.  Oh, by the way, the hash browns are not to be taken lightly.  Served up with a crisp outer covering and with flavor transferred from the grill, these are very special.  They were on the grill for at least 30 minutes, and the potatoes have an almost mashed potato texture on the inside.  These with a couple of eggs and a side of pepper bacon could cause a definite breakfast swoon.  I am glad I got to give them a try. 

I bid adieu to my new friends at 13 Coins and hoped to be back soon.  I didn’t realize just how soon it would be!  The next morning I picked up a colleague from the airport at about 11:30.  As he comes from the real timezone (Eastern), and they no longer serve peanuts on many flights, he was famished.  Thadd asked if I knew anyplace to eat near the airport.  Did I ever!

We took our seats at the counter and the floor show was in full swing again.  I decided on the smoked cheddar burger which features a half pound of ground chuck hand formed into a patty and served with caramelized onions and some of that great bacon.  It is served on a toasted Kaiser bun.  As a substitute for fries, I asked for a half order of the hash browns (extra crispy).  The burger was great.  It was prepared on the grill and had that great grill crust on it, but was still served medium.  They request that you order the meat medium well but they did end up doing it just how I liked it.  Thadd worked through a Reuben that could have fed everyone waiting for a flight to Detroit!  I thought we were pretty well satisfied until Thadd asked what they had for dessert.  This guy is not a cheap date – he doesn’t drink, but more than makes up for it when he ties on the feedbag!

Our server told us the only dessert to consider was the individual freshly made chocolate chip cookie with ice cream, chocolate sauce, and whipped cream.  They put the cookie dough in this small cast-iron frying pan and bake the suckers to order.  Our server told us it would take about 20 minutes but was worth the wait.  We waited and he was right!  We were told that it was enough for two but I managed to get one bite of this piece of heaven as Thadd polished it off.  I thought the cooks were going to give him a round of applause!  I am sure the success of our meeting had a lot to do with our pre-game meal!

The original 13 Coins opened in downtown Seattle in 1967.  I am told that the ambiance is pretty much the same as with the second location out by SeaTac which opened in 1976.  There have been three changes in ownership over the years, but this Seattle institution remains true to its original roots.  A place where a full menu is available 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.   If you find yourself at the airport, ask anyone where it is, and they will guide you to it.  On my next visit I think I will go for the hot crab and shrimp cheddar melt served on a toasted English muffin.  Remember to sit at the counter and enjoy the show.

Oh, by the way, here is the origin of the name of the place.  The "13 Coins" name is of Peruvian origin. The story goes that a poor young man loved and wished to marry a wealthy girl.  Her father asked what he had to offer for his daughter's hand in marriage.  The young man reached into his pocket.  He had only 13 coins, but assured the father he could pledge undying love, care and concern.  The father was so touched, he gave his daughter's hand and "13 Coins" has come to symbolize unyielding love, care and concern.

13 Coins Restaurant
18000 International Blvd.
Seatac, WA 98188
206-243-9500

13 Coins Restaurant
125 Boren Ave North
Seattle, WA 98109
206-682-2513

Hours – always open
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Steve Carter's March 2011 Dive of the Month: Old Hickory Bar-B-Q in Owensboro, Kentucky

I had the pleasure of visiting the Carhartt distribution center in Hanson, Kentucky not too long ago.  Hanson is like the very little brother of Madisonville, which is right next door.  The town was founded in 1869 and named for Henry Hanson.  Henry might have had a plan, as he is the guy who laid out the town for the railroad.  He might have sneaked one in on the bosses back in Nashville.  The town flourished for several years as a tobacco center.  Did you ever hear of the Hanson Twist?  I hadn’t either, and no one could really show me what one of these plugs looked like, but it got its name from this fair town.

The town fell on very hard times in the late 19^th century and early 20^th century, as the darn town kept catching fire.  I must say that they have gotten their act together and have a very cool little downtown section with historic homes and small galleries.  I emphasize the word “small” because Hanson is also recognized as having the smallest historic district in the state of Kentucky.  As nice as the galleries appeared to be, I can only vouch for a couple of petty good BBQ joints in town.  If you venture into Hanson you have to stop first at the Hanson Country Market.  Sitting in there is akin to surfing the Internet, as you can find out just about everything that is going on in town if you just listen to the people coming and going.  Nice pulled pork sandwiches for lunch and homemade biscuits and gravy every morning.  Carl and the crew will take care of you.

Right down the road sits Good Ole Boys Bar-B-Que.  The regulars have their assigned seating and touch the brim of their hats when you walk in.  Very friendly folks.  The barbecue pit sitting in a screened in porch is a thing of beauty.  The wonderful smell of smoke lets you know that you are in a place where they care about both food and people.  I was looking at homes for sale as soon as I walked out of the joint!  By the way, if you hit it on Wednesday or Friday, they have some pretty sweet banana pudding.  What I knew about Hanson before is that it is the home of the Robert C Valade distribution center.  Over 600,000 square feet dedicated to shipping Carhartt into stores across North America.  On this trip, I learned that Hanson is so much more!

After all that, I have to admit that the Dive of the Month isn’t in Hanson, or even Madisonville for that matter.  When I am in this part of Kentucky and spending a couple of days, I have to make a forty-mile trip over to Owensboro.  This town is an often overlooked BBQ Mecca.  While I can go on about Texas, Missouri, North Carolina, and other BBQ hot spots, anyone in the know will tell you that Owensboro has a great BBQ heritage.  It is the home of the International Bar-B-Q Festival held in early May each year.  It has a bit of a twist, as one of the key smoked meats is mutton.  Mutton, when smoked correctly, is tender and has a great smoky taste that marries up to the good strong flavor of the meat.  It is tender as the day is long, and if you have a fork and a bit of vinegar-based sauce, you are cooking on the front burner.  Perhaps the most famous Q joint in town is The Moonlight Bar-B-Q Inn.  They serve up some nice BBQ, and I have seen the pictures of the presidents and other luminaries who have stopped by.  For my money, I drive past The Moonlight and head on over to The Old Hickory Bar-B-Q. 

For six generations (the sign outside says five generations, but they are too busy to repaint it) the Foreman family has been smoking just about anything that has four legs.  Starting in 1918 with Pappy Foreman, this family has been turning out great BBQ.  Though they are known for their mutton and their tasty burgoo (kind of an iteration of Brunswick stew), I can vouch that the ribs are fall-off-the-bone good and the chicken has that perfectly-smoked skin while the meat stays moist.  This is an art form.  Also available are chopped pork, turkey, ham, and fresh catfish.  The Bar-B-Que plates feature your choice of meat (or go with the combo, which gives you any three meats), pickles, white bread, onions and your choice of two sides.

I have been to plenty of BBQ joints where the sides are an afterthought.  Some canned baked beans with a little brisket thrown in is considered a big deal.  The Old Hickory understands that sides are serious business.  The typical potato salad, bbq baked beans, cole slaw, green beans (to die for) and corn are matched with an excellent mac and cheese.  The fries and onion rings fell a bit short of the mark, as I think they are brought frozen on the Sysco truck.  Even with that, the sides are pretty nice at The Old Hickory.  If you go in for a sandwich, you can ask for the meat to come right “off the pit.”  This gets you a fresh cut right from the smoker.  While you do pay an extra 25 cents for this, don’t even think about not going for it!  The dinners cost you a whole extra 50 cents if you want the meat sliced “off the pit.”  You just gotta love a place like this!

The service is very good, and you can tell these waitresses know what they are doing.  It is fast and efficient, with just the right amount of sass.  Take your bill to the counter to have it rung up, and you will be looking at a case full of smoked meat and sides.  It was tough not to ask for just half a slab of bones for the ride home.  A person I know says that this part of Kentucky is too far north to be south and too far south to be north.  Her way of saying it is “in the middle of nowhere.”  I beg to differ; this part of Kentucky is just in the right place, in the middle of a BBQ belt that a lot more people should discover.  Take a trip and you will see that a lot of folks are working hard to make small-town America as real today as it was yesterday.

Old Hickory Bar-B-Q
338 Washington Avenue
Owensboro, Kentucky 42301
270-926-9000
Monday – Thursday 9:00AM – 9:00PM
Friday – Saturday   9:00AM – 10:00PM
Sunday                 9:00AM – 9:00PM

Steve Carter's Febuary 2011 Dive of the Month: Steuben's in Denver

Denver has a lineup of joints that I really enjoy.  20^th St Café, Rocky Mountain Diner, Root Down, Tom’s Home Cooking, The Cricket, Wazee Supper Club, Wynkoop Brewery, 9^th Door, just to name a few.  Denver seems to have more than its share of comfort food places.  While recently in Denver I was introduced to yet another comfort food house, Steuben’s, which opened its doors in 2006.  It is located on the 17^th street strip hard by other joints such as Park & Company, Hamburger Mary’s, Mona’s, and Rizaggio’s.  Denver is full of neighborhoods where you can park your car and go from dive to dive.  This is my kind of town.

The first thing I liked about Steuben’s was that it appeared to be located in a renovated two or three-bay garage.  The second thing I liked about it was meeting a knowledgeable waiter who had actually tasted everything that was on the incredibly eclectic menu.  Denver is a comfort food hotbed, and Steuben’s might actually be at the epicenter of this craze.  Every night there is a special on the menu.  The lineup is open face turkey on Monday, chicken parm on Tuesday, fish & chips on Wednesday, pork chops on Thursday, chicken pot pie on Friday, pot roast on Saturday, and chicken fried steak on Sunday.  If at least one of those specials doesn’t take you back in time, then you have no working memory cells! 

I was with a group that was not afraid to tie on the feed bag, and we decided to give this place a workout.  The beverage of choice was provided by the Oskar Blues Brewery of Lyons Colorado.  They serve up magic in a can, and I settled on Mama’s Little Yella Pils, a small batch pilsner with plenty of flavor.  The appetizers started to appear as John the waiter helped us find a gastro rhythm.  Baked meatballs, chili soy wings, fried cheese, deviled eggs, Rhode Island calamari, and gravy fries soon graced the table.  The stars of the show were the deviled eggs, mostly because I love them and never seem to get them, and the gravy fries.  The gravy fries were hand cut potatoes, perfectly fried in what I can only imagine was peanut oil and slathered with a great white gravy that had me thinking they probably do a pretty mean biscuits and gravy in the morning hour.  As it turns out, they do have biscuits and gravy on a weekend brunch menu.

When it came to the entrees, our buddy John pointed us in the right direction.  Chicken pot pie was the special and it did not disappoint, as it came with a flaky pastry crust and a perfect blend of chicken, veggies, and gravy with enough seasoning to stop and make you think about what you were eating.  The skirt steak with chimichurri butter was complemented with crispy brussel sprouts.  As good as the steak was, the slightly caramelized Brussels sprouts were the highlight of the plate.  Not many joints have the courage to put these on a menu.  It was a realization that Steuben’s doesn’t try to make everyone happy with a sanitized approach to food.  You can find the sanitized approach at any theme restaurant to which so many Americans seem to flock.  Eating should be an adventure, not merely an activity to make it through the day!

We also tried the spicy linguini, mac and cheese, roasted chicken, and braised short ribs.  A veritable feast that takes you back home.  It seems they have a menu that attempts to please everyone with regional comfort food.  The sides of collard greens, mashed potatoes, hush puppies (rolled in sugar – this I didn’t understand), and fried corn, among others, were done well and served as a complement as opposed to an afterthought to fill out a plate.  I missed out on the crawfish etouffee, Memphis ribs, fried chicken, and trout.  I will be back to try them.  I would also like to try their version of the cubano, the green chili cheeseburger, and the smothered burrito.  They have other regional favorites, such as the cheese steak sandwich and the Maine lobster roll.  Pretty gutsy of them, and you have to take your hat off to a place that will try to create flavors that you grew up with.

Steuben’s is the kind of place I would love to live down the street from – a crowded casual atmosphere where you can lose yourself for a couple of hours.  The food selection will pull you back to a time when gas was under a buck a gallon and you rented from Ma Bell your rotary phone that sat on a table in the living room.  Today gas is over $3.00 a gallon and you bought a phone that fits in your pocket, and talking on it is one of its more mundane features.  Times have changed, but good comfort food has not.  Next time you are in Denver give this place a try.  One word of advice is to get there early!  It is a great place to people watch, as you will see families, the Denver version of hipsters, and cowboys in Carhartt rubbing elbows with each other.  Our table neighbors were celebrating their mom’s 70^th birthday.  The hit of the night was the flaming volcano drink with seven straws.  Mom appeared to love it! Just another way this place brings back memories as well as makes new ones.

Steuben’s
523 East 17^th Street
Denver Colorado 80203
303-830-1001
www.steubens.com

Monday – Thursday 11AM – 11PM
Friday                   11AM – 12AM
Saturday               10AM – 12AM
Sunday                 10AM – 11PM